Showing posts with label Avedon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Avedon. Show all posts

22 September 2012

Milan Madness: Spring 2013

PRADA
Really? Mink coats for spring? Mink coats with floral motifs? The Richard Avedon Vogue July 1967 cover of Twiggy immediately spring-ed into my head (see right). This season, Miuccia Prada showed shapes that are classic Prada: The modest shift dresses, the pencil skirts, the robe-coats worn open over bra tops and granny pants. All these were made in duchesse satin, that stiff, smooth almost ceremonial silk, recalling the label's heritage (this fabric was the star of the label's first few seasons).


This season the styles were made fresh by Mrs Prada's take on the Japanese aesthetic. I can only hope magazines aren't going to be literal next year and shoot Memoirs of a Geisha spreads - it would be too tiresome for words. Some of the dresses featured rigid folds that echo the folds of traditional Japanese dress, with the stiffness of obis, and the geometry of orgami - all of which you can read elsewhere as critics go into overdrive, but none will say, as I do here, that the folds recall more the elaborate gift-wrapping that comes from any purchase made in a Japanese shop. The outfits look like precious parcels. The floral motifs are fairly obvious takes (the LV monogramme canvas has these ancient flower icons) and could have come straight from those half-curtains you need to flick as you enter a sushi joint, as are those tabi socks worn with sandals, embellished with bows that are pure Hello Kitty.

11 November 2010

Fire & Ice

Before: Revlon’s 1952 ad for the Fire & Ice Collection, shot by Richard Avedon, featuring model Dorian Leigh wearing a silver gown framed by a sweeping opera cape (a copy of a Balenciaga original), her hands drawing attention to her red nails and lips.
Its like a Rene Gruau drawing, isn't it?
After: With Fire & Ice back on shelves (Revlon has re-released three “lip-and-tip” pairings). The recreated ad, shot by Mario Testino, features actress Jessica Biel (it's challenging to even try to think what she's ever been in. TV movie, maybe?). It just looks so tawdry. Is it her? Is it him?

30 October 2010

What Becomes A Legend Most?

Unless you've been hiding under a furball for the season, you would already know that Janet Jackson is the latest 'legend' to be featured in the iconic Blackglama fur ads.Ms Jackson has joined a group of legendary fashion figures that have been photographed, wrapped in the famous furs. The list of stars to pose in the ads over the years include Bette Davis, Audrey Hepburn, Ray Charles, Sophia Loren, Marlene Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor, Diana Ross, Lauren Bacall, Lena Horne, Liza Minelli, Judy Garland, Faye Dunaway, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell and many more. With each famous face featured in the ad, the slogan reads:"What becomes a Legend most?"Ms Jackson said: "What makes a legend, to me, is someone who has made a major mark on the world that lasts forever. Not just with their art, but for example, Elizabeth Taylor is a legendary actor, but [there is] also her humanitarian efforts, working with AIDS and AIDS research," she says. "That, to me, is what really makes someone a legend. I have too much to accomplish to consider myself a legend."Rocco (who?) Laspata (huh?) was the photographer, not a good follow up to the legends of yore, who were shot by the legendary Richard Avedon. The legends were never named in the ads; And they were paid with the Avedon portrait and one fur coat of their choice. The first in this series of ads ran in 1967.

10 July 2010

He Said She Said

The January 1963 Bazaar cover by Richard Avedon was a tribute to Diana Vreeland. The model, one 'Dani', looks suspiciously like a man. Do you think...?"Camp is a tender feeling." - Susan Sontag

22 January 2010

Weekend Reading List


Besides scrolling through more than 1,500 text messages on my mobile in bid to spring clean my phone? I settled down to study some of the magazines that Tuppance passsed me, always a pretty good sampling of of what passes on the newsstands these days (since she buys seemingly everything in bid to enlarge her carbon footprint). I'm frankly appalled. The i-D looked promising, I have to admit. They do have arresting covers - but the writing! My goodness. The copy, written wholly (it seems) by interns, seems never to have been edited and the "fashion spreads" are incomprehensible. Why does this magazine even exist? Can there be anything more self-indulgent?
No, wait. There is a men's style magazine in Singapore that is (side glance).
Can you imagine the mind of the reader of i-D? What a tumble of rubbish it must be - and to think that it's a British magazine. The Vanity Fair also looked promising: But after several trials (seated, sprawled and lying down) I gave up - I couldn't finish even one story. I looked at the W and V with sweaty palms. And decided to throw them out without even lifting from plastic bag. Can you imagine a person that reads those? Old media really is in a very bad way. Okay. At least the Allure had some interesting snippets - but then it's made entirely of snippets and drag pictures; It's entertaining.
H gave me a stack of The Economists, but at least she's tagged the relevant stories. She also gave me two books which I have somewhere - the pompous Richard Avedon book An Autobiography and the vintage Herb Ritts Pictures. H says they remind her of out Tangs days, when we worked out of a cave-like office on the 7th floor. The books are for me to pass to KV who collects these things. Leafing through the pre-digital pictures, one was transported to another era, literally.

22 January 2009

Rudolf Nureyev




I've just finished reading the densely detailed Julie Kavanagh bio Nureyev: The Life. What a monster he was, a diva to put some of those fashion divas I know in the shade. A great awe-struck work of research though it is, I feel it's just a little too worshipful.


In these (in)famous Avedon portraits, shot soon after his defection from Russia, one sees his feral beauty (yes, it was no myth, like a horse): But oh, how brief and transient it was.