The thing about Kris Van Assche is that though undoubtedly talented, he has not lived up to his potential - until now. This is a breathtakingly confident collection, effortlessly elegant and perfectly in tune with the times, not only light in touch and fabric, the work feels light psychologically, a tall glass of spring water. This could very well be the collection Stefano Pilati was striving to present at YSL. Question: Why did Van Assche present such a clunky collection in his eponymous line? This work seems light years away, totally different.
Véronique Nichanian is Hermes. Have you seen such genteel clothes ever? So unpretentious? Such fabrics? So easy? Such colours? This is like the sorbet course in a heavy gourmet's dream isn't it? 
As usual, an inspired romp in superb styling. I don't miss much of what goes on during the fashion weeks when I was there covering the shows (how long ago that all seems now), but Galliano's Homme always had me hyperventilating - always worth the super long wait. If only his women's could be just as wickedly crazy. This season, beneath the theatrical histrionics, you can see some pretty awesome clothes, including the shiney cropped pants, and those sandals! And don't you love the conceit of shirts used as obi belts? And the Balinese touches...
Cute, in truth (thankfully) brief, Riccardo Tisci's slim talents have produced at least ONE pair of lust-worthy studded sandals, and these Hip Young Thing togs. I like the medieval hood thing, and the proportions on those shorts things look right. 
Ash can make anything look good! He's got that Kate thing...It's the neck.
What happened here? Although Stephan Pilati is one of my own pantheon of fashion gods, I must say this collection was hit and miss. Some of it is passably nice, but most of it looked old and off... by a couple of seasons. All those Obiwan Kenobi stuff from Star Wars? Been there, done that (and much better) with Rick Owens, a long, long time ago. The volumes looked like what it is - excess fabric. I've picked the five best looks, the rest are shocking.
I love Paul Helbers's work. Despite 54 exits, there were only a few that were dull or clunky. The cuts were wickedly sharp (the immaculate fit!), the colours so refined. This is elegant, sexy luxury defined. If only Marc Jacobs was half this good... (or even a 20th).
Wow! The refined fabrics, the 'exotic' patterns, that special sense of colour... This is a really gorgeous collection, beautiful without being effete, dignified; It's graceful, and masculine without swagger. It reminded me of Jogjarkata, the colour combinations, the fluidity, the volume. I would wear it all!
Luke Worall looks so nice!
Can wear to Butter!
So short!
This is not fashion, but it's joyous and silly, and I totally approve of unabashed camp! Dsquared has gone all-out frisky this summer (again!), so click through if you like Abercrombie & Fitch catelogues. It's Bruce Weber meets Bel Ami and you know you love it. I don't mind the short shorts at all!
