One of only a handful of real designers working today, Raf Simons's eponymous line is always as directional as a lighthouse beacon, showing the way to a sea of pretenders. In this stellar collection, the tailoring deconstruction and innovation makes crystal-clear sense. You only need to compare this to all the tomfoolery produced by Thom Browne to know what I'm talking about. Also, note the influence here by Prada from the Spring 08. I heart Prada. I heart Raf Simons.
The tailoring and innovation present here (in Raf's line) only "makes sense" to you because it is not really much of any innovation whatsoever. Thom Browne's designs which you so quickly dismiss are actually innovative. In one way you are right- they intrinsically do not make sense by traditional menswear definitions. The approach Thom Browne takes when designing his collection is so important in its severe difference from past rational menswear models, that Mr. Browne's collection cannot be compared to any other current menswear lines including Raf Simons.
ReplyDeleteIlluminating comment, thank you. But I have reservations about innovations for the sake of. In that case, anything patently absurd can be considered innovative, which in the end does not move fashion forward. Innovations are not to be confused with gimmicks or indeed novelty.
ReplyDeleteQuite apart from this debate, I think I just wanted to express my views on Mr Browne's work.
Thom Browne is looking great - sensible, serious, old-school gentlemen, everyday-type clothes - but frankly, not worth the shit.
ReplyDeleteLike i said: Everyday. Hello!
Just shop at J Crew(or even Benjamin Bixby!!!), machine wash everything and finally shove it all in the dryer... you get Thom Browne for less. And really much less, despite J Crew not being very pocket-friendly to start.
Anyone looking to pay Mr Browne that kinda money should be buying Lanvin - a label boasting far more INNOVATION than Browne.
Oh and Raf Simons for Jil Sander. That's quite pushing the envelope too.
I heart Raf.
I heart Prada.
I heart Lucas
I think you heart Lucas Chow.
ReplyDelete