The overall impression is one of heaviness. I'm not sure the ankle boots worked at all, nor the thick tweed shoulders worn with lace stockings: Too Ivana Trump. The panels weighed the eye down, and the skirt lengths looked frumpy. Even the fail-safe Chanel suits looked Escada. Of course, a storied couture atelier, producing 66 exits, is sure to hit some sublime notes, but that's a few less than I expect from my favourite couturier and my favourite fashion house.