24 September 2009

The Groaning Shelf

Is Chanel the most famous of all couturiers?
She very well may be, what with the many movies and books she spawns, it would seem, almost weekly. Next up is Rhonda Garelick's biography, Antigone in Vogue; Professor Garelick says:“Chanel is a successful poseur who came from nothing and blasted her way into society and celebrity, tapping into desires that are far more than sartorial.”
Interest in the couturier has never really waned, but 2009 seems a banner year for all things Chanel. Let's see, there was the movie Coco Avant Chanel, before that was Coco Chanel, the Emmy-nominated television miniseries, with the couturier played by Shirley MacLaine. Then there is the Coco Chanel and Igor Stravinsky, a biopic that closed the Cannes Film Fest. This fall another bio, Coco Chanel by Justine Picardie will be published, concentrating on Chanel’s affair with a Nazi officer during the occupation of Paris, one in a series of morally compromising choices she made to ensure that even in wartime. More light-hearted is The Gospel According to Coco Chanel, a self-help guide masquerading as an irreverent biography.
“If she was just a demimondaine who had a little millinery shop, even though she had wildly notorious affairs we wouldn’t remember her,” said Michael Koda of the Costume Institute. "She owes her presence in the contemporary consciousness to the continuing vigor of the brand.”

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