Spring 2010: Paris

So who likes what? 

Maybe Paris Fashion Week feels more important, and has much better clothes, simply because more designers show there anyway. There was a lot of fashion to digest, although, eventually, it still boils down to a mere handful of leading designers who had anything fresh or meaningful to say.

Top 3:

1. Dries Van Noten: I liked the romantic clothes, which are at the same time wearable, elegant, classic and made in excitingly sumptuous fabrics. Of course, Asian features will always attract my eye and I found the Batik and exploded Ikat prints delicious and modern.

2. Lanvin: I can't see the innovation, although it's said that there were technical feats involved in the draping and pleating. All I can see, or indeed, need to see, is that what was shown was excitingly beautiful, nothing short of the highest standard. Can you want anything more from a fashion collection? I rather think not.

3. Chanel: Flirtatious, happy, youthful, possibly escapist but isn't this what fashion is for? Married to the high production value of Chanel, these looks are frothy but never cheap. Following a Fall Couture that was so forbiddingly sombre and heavy, this is undiluted joy. Hate the clogs. Love the crochet, embroidery and lace. Yes, in the same outfit.

The Rest:

1. Alexander McQueen (pictured): Gorgeous, genius, and Gee-whiz; Quite simply the best from him so far.

2. Balenciaga: You kind of know what he's driving at, but it's grim and challenging, and in the end, not all that new or brilliant.

3. Celine: Everyone is raving about this, deservingly. It's nice.

4. YSL: I love the strawberry motif! That dress is killer, if a little bit Bottega? But in the end, the collection lacks cohesion, although lighter and easier than Stefano Pilati's usual work. Not his best.

5. LV: Afro Ken anyone? It's cute, but that's all.

6. Dior: It's like falling asleep while watching a very old movie.

7. Hermes: Clothes, a lot of them.

8. Jean Paul Gaultier: Not a very successful collection, my dear.

9. Balmain: I like it; For what it's worth, it works. It's sort of the new Gucci, no?

10. Chloe: Really quite cute, and quite original.