Men's Fall 2010: Paris

I'm way behind in my men's season coverage and Spring Couture has already broken, and nipping at my heel. So here's a quick recap of the Paris season: Altogether, Paris was a lot more refined and ideas-driven, compared to Milan. In fact, there seemed to be a concerted attempt to break away from what is classic menswear and a steady embrace on the one hand the reinvention of sportswear (Raf Simons, Lanvin) and on the other, women's wear (Dior Homme, Rick Owens). Both are exciting developements.
FAVES:
Lanvin Lucas Ossendrijver is like Louis Vuitton's Paul Helbers. He has invented for Lanvin a male identity which is seperate from it's women's, with a distinct voice: This collection is no less beautiful than his spring one, if a great deal less flashy. The military theme is given such a treatment as to make it a completely new without falling into the "costume" department. It's still belted and peplum-ed, and the easier fit is not excessive nor sloppy, and such interesting colours!
Rick Owens While I must note that it does go on and on and would benefit from a tighter edit, the continuation of the theme 'savage grace' carves this as Mr Owens's own. I love it chiefly for the Paul Poiret (see below) proportions, and the complete disregard of what is traditionally deemed masculine. Some of the items look like belle epoque dresses. The rest is from the Star Wars series - if only Lucasfilms had Mr Owens to dress the movies!

Raf Simons Briskly modern, this collection had all the vision and excitement that his Jil Sander collection lacked and restores all faith in him.
Dior Homme Twenty looks too many but I loved that it is as much about flow and draping as it is about tailoring. There seems to be a new vocabularly being invented for Dior Homme, one which reads so much clearer and sharper than Kris Van Assche's eponymous collection which is flabby in comparison.

Hermes What can I say? For me, this is right up there along with Paul Helbers's work. This is a luxe rive gauche idea, contemporary masculinity, sexy, graceful and elegant without being effete, achieved effortlessly by Veronique Nichianian.

John Galliano The styling is inspired and inspiring as usual. Love the Oriental splashes.

THE REST:Dries Van Noten Disappointing, incomplete but not as bad as some reviews will have you believe, just not fully formed nor entirely new (but then so few things are!). Yves Saint Laurent Besides the laughable Bruce Weber film shown (how irrelevant can it get?) Stefano Pilati seems to have painted himself into a corner; In truth, the coats and jackets with the interesting volume and proportion are beautiful and new classics, the rest is challenging to say the least. Comme Des Garcons Gimmicky and LOL, if it wasn't so deadly serious. Jean Paul Gaultier Seems designed specifically for Mr and Mrs Marc Jacobs to wear.