18 June 2010

Men's Spring 2011: Jil Sander

Yes, and we're off to a crackling start. Raf Simons celebrated his five years at Jil Sander with a vibrant conflagaration of color— intense electric flourouscent colours combined and layered to pop art/ manga effect. It's joyous, positive, optimistic and energetic. Colour does that to you - it's like staring at a David Hockney painting. Curiously, the riot of colours and print made me like the passage of easy dark tailoring best of all. This collection signalled renewal more than proposing anything really new (the shapes, suits, fit, proportion are all Jil Sander mainstays - the light touch is novel, though); And it doesn't matter, because it provided the kick that fashion's on-going doldrums need. I can so see this being done at Uniqlo in no time at all.

4 comments:

  1. Hockney is right! Its so interesting how these color combos are kind of antithetical to Lacroix's palette, and yet they make me think of Lacroix because both aesthetics combine unexpected colors. Hockney's colors in his paintings are more masculine than his color pencil work, which are closer to Lacroix's sensibilities, more feminine. I heart color!! This collection was made for me!! And I'm going to get you a pair of those indigo short shorts that will go so well with your old favourite olive green tee-shirt which I hope you still have...

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  2. Andrew: Hockney colours because the total idea of a certain flatness to the colours which seem to have no idea of shading, a kind of poster paint idea of colour, and that's why i mentioned manga. Lacroix's colour for me has the sensibility of old master paintings, the fabrics and textures give it the colours shifting shades, volume and sensuality whereas the colour here has a flattening effect. Also, the end effect owes more to graphic (digital?)art than Lacroix's avowed influences (Zubaran, Goya, El Greco etc), so Lacroix couldn't be further from my mind, maybe a touch of Matisse's paper collages? As for those beloved army olive drab T-shirts - they are tucked away lovingly (holes and all) too precious to wear as I fear the next wash might destroy them forever! I still have my acs shorts can u berliffit?

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  3. amc

    Those stripeson the t-shirts and sweaters are definitely Jim Lambie. interesting installation work varies according to the site.

    http://www.google.com/images?client=safari&rls=en&q=jim%20lambie%20zobop&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi

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  4. amc: Thanks for the informative tip!

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