Men's Spring 2011: YSL

I feel compelled to say that Stefano Pilati's slight collection isn't as dull or as much of a head scratcher as some critics have deemed it to be. It surely isn't Mr Pilati at his most energetic or inspired but the looks are thought-provoking nonetheless. I like that no apparent effort seems to have gone to make anything obviously 'attractive'; Instead, the entire uncontrived thing seems to be an intellectual exercise, anti commercial, anti hype, quite dry and quietly quite fabulous. The pallete is refined, subtle. And those fez-things perched on the head? I think Mr Saint Laurent used to send them out throughout his career.