One of Jean Paul Gaultier dearest themes is androgyny and this time, the way this was expressed was more subversive than as usual. On the surface, the dresses and gowns innocently said 1940s Hollywood, with Lauren Bacall jackets, Myrna Loy dresses and Joan Crawford gowns. But the wild exaggeration actually screamed drag queen. The collection had all the hyper-feminity of a female impersonator revue.
The extreme shoulders and sleeves were outlined with a pie crust of fins. Armorial leather bodices looked like the carapaces of beetles, and looked combative, not appealing. The menacing bat-winged coats looked like a predatory manta ray. The bride wore a trench coat. Even Dita Von Teese, who took a turn on the catwalk, stripping down to an hourglass corset, had the look of a cartoon-y female impersonator, despite her famous hand-span waist.
All this was made dazzling, and saved from looking frankly ridiculous, by the amazing cuts and innovative draping of this couture master.Top 3 for me:
1. Dior 2. Jean Paul Gaultier 3. Chanel