09 October 2012

Spring 2013: Surprise, Surprise!

After thinking about the Spring 2013 season for a bit, I must say that a few collections really surprised me with their strong showing. These are labels that I don't habitually like (ie, not my sacred cows!) but this season, there seems to be new energy, cohesiveness and creativity in their designs - which leads me to think that maybe they hired new assistants?

Riccardo Tisci has always been too 'trendy' for me, with a too-cool-it-hurts hype that doesn't seem to have any connection to his actual designs. Besides I never liked the gothic aesthetic (usually marketed as "Italian Catholicism" - whatever). But this season seems refreshingly different, and I liked it on first sight, the clarity, lightness and reduction. Also Mr Tisci's take on this season's key trends looked the most relevant, attractive and light, including the smoking, ruffles and minimalism in tunics and shifts. The baby blue is so pretty!

Alexander Wang
Gone were the "downtown hipster" cliches of his reputation and instead what seemed to be an army of ideas came pouring down and yet the vision was cohesive and the execution accomplished. There was nothing of the amateurish in this collection, no awkward or ungainly gestures, just inspiring and technically polished. The overall vibe actually made me recall the American great Geoffrey Beene.

Marc Jacobs
Shockingly coherent and all of a piece, the stripped down 'clean-slate' aesthetic is bold, lean and elegant and packs a more powerful punch than the usual excess. 

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