FIFTY
SHADES OF BLEAK
If
the on-going Spring collections are anything to go by, the future of fashion is
looking decidedly bleak, vapid and yes, heading nowhere fast. By Daniel Goh
As
fashion becomes increasingly democratic (with every click of the mouse, a new
fashion star is born), with the unstoppable tsunami of digital media, the
traditional top-down fashion pyramid is being turned on its couture head. Now,
fashion trends are filtering up from the new media to the labels, rather than
the other way around. This is detrimental to fashion and style, isn’t it?
Designers don’t dictate trends, or create fashion anymore, the masses do, with
mouse in one hand, and camera phone in the other.
The
visionary Fashion God is dead, long live the Influencer. The fashion industry
has always been deeply rooted in the cult of the personality, for isn’t fashion
about individuality and taste? Now it is all about digital technology, and the
information it generates about what people want – crowd-sourced trends, anyone?
Every aspect of the industry used to be reliant on people rather than machines
— everything from hand-sketched designs to a stylist’s touch, where an
individual fashion god’s subjective tastes can dictate an entire era’s
aesthetics. Now, we’re seeing all aspects of the industry affected by new
technology and providing data analysis and ‘tracking’. The effect is
predictable, lowest common denominator fashion – merchandise cynically produced
to appeal to as wide an audience as possible, which is ultimately more about
money than it is about style.
And isn’t live-streaming killing fashion too? With an ever-wider reach, live-streams of runway shows, and other digital coverage and updates enable just about anybody to ‘attend’ the shows. The exclusive and elite nature of fashion is gone for good. The flattening of the fashion pyramid is now the landscape where those with an informed point of view, an educated vision are slugging it out online with the speediest clickers and illiterate, ignorant Instagram queens. And Instagram queens with legions of ghost followers are winning.
Although
change is what makes fashion tick, the escalating speed of change in fashion is
actually putting people off buying fashion. The constant demand for change and
novelty leaves real consumers bewildered, and many have simply retreated into a
world of casual Normcore basics - for good. Escalating change has also put an
enormous strain on the creators of fashion who now put out eight or more
collections a year, and quantity is surely detrimental to quality. Fashion
cycles have become so short that a 1970s revival can repeat a towic in a mere couple of
years! Add to that changes in trends wrought by celebrities and other
influencers who reach millions and that’s a lot of fashion change in a
nanosecond. Trends changing at a moment’s notice is making fashion an
impossible, depleting race against time.
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