25 September 2015

Spring 2016 Review: TOUGH AND TENDER LOVE

And three’s a trend: the rough with the smooth at Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein Collection and J W Anderson. By Daniel Goh

For 2016, the traditionally pretty Spring season is shaping up to be full of challenging concepts. One of the most important trends is for the uncompromisingly unpretty, even in the slightest and most delicate items.

Tough and Tender 1

Calvin Klein Collection:
An example of this is the Calvin Klein slipdress – a hallmark item at this label, the 1990s slipdress has undergone a rethink by designer Francisco Costa to become something a lot more intellectual, with its waft and tenderness undercut by gashes hanging and straps flying, uneven hems and unseductive slits. The severe and violent vibe goes on in the intellectual (though fluid) suits (look 22), the destroyed black dresses (look 28) and knits (look 29). Softness is always served with a side of aggression, sweaters have holes and are clawed to shreds, cuts and slits mark gowns.

In this collection, the ambiguous hard/soft contrasts of leather with silk in the same colour is an ambiguity that throws you off and makes you uneasy. The palette is severe and even the floral prints look unsweet, abstract and almost cosmic.

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