WORLD
WORE ‘15
Look
back in wonder at the year in men’s fashion trends and themes in this flashback. By
Daniel Goh
This has been a big, dramatic year in fashion; Not only did men’s
fashion thrust forward decisively in looks that completely broke from the past,
it zoomed ahead without nostalgia or sentimentality for eras past, and menswear
is finally freed to move into the 21 Century.
Doherty, whom no fashion can now save, looking very much like Stephen Fry. |
If Only Pete Doherty Was Slim
There was a sense of déjà vu when Pete Doherty, now a pudgy
uncle at 36, appeared at Saint Laurent’s show in Paris last October. The former
rake thin Rimbaud of rock (and former squeeze of Kate Moss), who was the
“thin-spiration” behind Saint Laurent’s seminal Spring 2015 collection,
appeared to be twice the size (and age!) of his former self (albeit still
sweaty, unwashed and clutching a pack of cigarettes like a ball of used
tissue). Nonetheless, the skinnier than thou models, squashed into frayed jeans
and stovepipe leather leggings, a flail of beaded chiffon or a shrug of
shrunken jacket recalled the poet/punk of The Libertines in his fey days. If
only he were thin again.
In this hit collection for Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane seemed
also to be citing his own gloriously slim self, and by the way celebrating the
marginalized, the freak, the fragile, the queen, the poet, making a case of
relevance for the disagreeable, disgruntled, and preternaturally sour. That
such a stance actually strikes at the heart of, and is a comment on, the happy,
shiny hordes of Instagram, the hordes that have clicked their approval in waves
of “Likes”, seems to be lost on the Social Media generation. This can only
prove that the Social Media generation is dumb and lost and that Slimane is
beyond cynical.
(Spring/Summer 2015 examples: Saint Laurent SS 1 8 16 17 38 46 53
61 65; Lanvin SS 8 10 14 23 38 43)
Part 1 of 4 - Part 2 will be posted up later
Part 1 of 4 - Part 2 will be posted up later
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