27 January 2009

Men's Collection Fall 2009: The Rest in Paris







Despite disappointed reviews from commentators and bloggers, this men's season wasn't a total washout. In my opinion, these were very good efforts indeed. A lot of the hyperbolic conceits have been trimmed to fit these leaner times, in the process revealing real thinking and some really desirable clothes. Dries van Noten, Hermes and Louis Vuitton presented solid, chic collections, humourlessly, but politely elegant clothes that effectively do their job. On the other hand, Number (N)ine, Ann Dem, Gaultier (it's instructive to contrast what he does with the works of Dolce, and Dsquared, to see how gay clothes designed by gay men can still amount to anything), Kris Van Assche (and Dior Homme) have shown that romance and imagination are still relevant, with a bit of editing. All in all, an unexpectedly satisfying season, not full of thrills, but interesting and relevant.

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