The thing about Kris Van Assche is that though undoubtedly talented, he has not lived up to his potential - until now. This is a breathtakingly confident collection, effortlessly elegant and perfectly in tune with the times, not only light in touch and fabric, the work feels light psychologically, a tall glass of spring water. This could very well be the collection Stefano Pilati was striving to present at YSL. Question: Why did Van Assche present such a clunky collection in his eponymous line? This work seems light years away, totally different.