29 June 2009

men's Spring 2010: The Rest


Paul Smith
Refreshing, classy and classic. Fantastic, unaffectedly elegant clothes and colours.

Junya Watanabe
Preppy and nice... but is that enough? It's a salaryman's idea of style.

Comme Des Garcons
Love that it's not over-intellectualised. It's cheerful, and likeable and the patchwork jackets are fun. 

Dunhill
Youthful take on classics by Kim Jones. I would wear this totally.

Hugo
Bruno Pieters's best collection yet. A bit pedestrian and bogged down still.

Jean Paul Gaultier
Some of the "futurist" looks were promising, and then quick degeneration into pure '80s drag. Seems to be designed with Madame Kenneth Goh on mood board.

Kris Van Assche
One wants this to work, but it's mired by unnecessary, awkward detailing. It's like Rampage in the '80s. Too fancy by half.

Rick Owens
Interesting, but not unusually so. It's getting to be a bit predictable, so Mr Owens needs to find a new trick.

There, I'm done for this season... phew!
Picture: Garrett Nef, godlike, captured by Jak & Jil, one of my favourite pictures of this American model.

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