A solid collection that had more ideas per exit than the entire collection Raf Simons presented for Jil Sander, which in comparison now, retrospectively, seems thin, very much a one-trick pony. I like the perverse contrast of the strictly conventional (the crispness of the white shirtings, the black tie, the sharp collar, the traditional oxfords, the combed hair) juxtaposed with the quietly crazy (the sailor pants with ballgown volume, the sleeveless, the glossy (plastic?) scrubs, the unexpected colours, the unironical proposal of feminine clothes). This collection is like a bookend to the one (has anyone noticed this?) presented by Prada, with many similar themes, including the reference to utility wear, the volume, the strictness, and the rythmn. The one thing I still don't like - the exaggerated zipper pulls. Mr Simons has done this before, and yet the gimmick still jars. Otherwise, an inspiring, substantial collection to take away for the season.
amc
ReplyDeleteThis collection is truly uncompromisly raf. I feel the same way about his collection for jil, it lacked that something (as with the case for some if his previous jil collections) at the beginning of jil he proposed a strong silhouette that rarely varied from season to season. Don't get me wrong I love his work at jil and I think to him it is the constant it is the classic and the ultimate. He definitely covers more ground with his own collections, I guess it's his labatory. And jil is the formular. The organic volume of his pants remind me of the kind of work pants the Japanese labour workers wear, but done in a light airy fabric of course. The volumes the juxtaposition of a longer hem line for the tops vs the high waisted pant cummerbunds. Dress like tunics, bicycle shorts, rubber coveralls they somehow manage to not look stupid and overdone. And those zipper pulls, well I have to say I'm quite fond of them, there's a certain clunkiness and roughess about them that makes the clothes feel not so precious and unattainable? And it's very sensual, the very idea of putting zips on mens blouses is already very subversive. I'm thankful for raf and his commitment to his label, and of course for this exqusite collection.
amc: He's the opposite of Kris Van Assche who does a much better collection for dior than his eponymous label.
ReplyDeletei never thought of zippers on men as being subversive. this is interesting... why do you think so?
amc
ReplyDeleteto me zips have such a strong connection to womenswear. The invention of zips simplified and accelerated the way women put on their clothes and they are the easiest and most efficient fasterners. I know that full length zips are used in alot of sports wear and it's really not uncommon in menswear but they way he used them at the back of sleeveless tops unzipped to the top made me think about how sensual they were, it would be virtually impossible for a man to dress himself without the help of someone else. To me that's almost like a woman getting dressed in the 1800s putting on a corset etc. And by using such a huge zipper pull and futher emphasizing that concept of dressing and undressing felt totally sensual to me. Well just my thoughts :) anyways it's just fashion and clothes. Everyone has his own ideas and concepts. But at the end of the day everyone dresses up to look good and to feel good and that's what it should be fun. I guess raf offers us more options to have 'fun' whilst planting these seeds in our conciousness and making us question what is the future of fashion and menswear.
amc: thanks for sharing. LOL, and its obviously not just fashion and clothes to you. I like that you brought up about the dressing/ undressing like a woman, which seems to me more and more of a movement. Is it positive or negative do you think?
ReplyDelete