1. Lanvin: Words fail me.
2. Yohji Yamamoto: Because it's lyrical, romantic, pretty without being drag and I think for once, surprisingly light-hearted.
3. Yves Saint Laurent: Because no one else seems to like it!
4. Hermes: So faultlessly correct. It appeals to the Virgo in me. I love being morally superior and this collection would make anyone morally superior.
5. Dior: Because again, no one seems to like it, although it is wonderfully accomplished, perfectly gauged, plainly beautiful. I love the Chinese inflections, the wrap tops, the kungfu pants and the fluid draping. And I like the way Kris Van Assche is steering Dior Homme away from the prison of that narrow definition that Hedi Slimane had created.
Number 6 is Raf Simons for me.
And my fave model this season is Philipp Beirbaum: It's the Austrian thing. Plus the neck.
i've always thought that there is a great deal of Eastern influence, esp. Japanese, in van Assche's work but rather few people seem to have picked up on that so i'm glad you highlighted the Chinois element in this collection.
ReplyDeletealso: 'And I like the way Kris Van Assche is steering Dior Homme away from the prison of that narrow definition that Hedi Slimane had created.'
bravo! hear hear! Slimane is so very very vastly over-rated and the sooner ignored/forgotten the better.
Anon: Ha! Delighted that you agree with me about Mr Van Assche and his covert asian element. my theory is that people don't really know how to see anymore. they just read tim blanks or suzy m or whoever and they believe EVERYTHING they read, failing to respond honestly to pretty much anything. sad.
ReplyDeleteas for mr slimane, his talent is as slim as his self, and the silhouette he created at dior was very much one-trick one-track and died its own natural death. same goes for his photography.