31 March 2010
30 March 2010
Jop van Bennekom and Gert Jonkers, the innovative talents behind the fantastic Fantastic Man (launched in 2005) are also the publishers behind The Gentlewoman, which is edited by Penny Martin. Ms Martin, 37, has edited Nick Knight's Showstudio website for seven years, and she's a professor of Fashion Imagery at the London College of Fashion.
Although the thing looks fresh, organised and logical, it's nothing really exceptional or new. There's quite a lot of stuff to plow through, and there's something for everyone, but it did feel, in the 10 minutes I gave it, like I was clicking through the internet. I was also disturbed by the cover-to-cover Céline ubiquity. The cover is Phoebe Philo sporting a Céline scarve, logo legible (by David Sims and Camilla Nickerson). Ms Philo and Céline products subsequently appear on more than 30 pages, including the cover story, fashion and product spreads. The Céline ads, on pages 10 and 11 look like part of the book: Still such 'support' seems unprecedcented and excessive?
I'll rather spend my money on Butt Magazine, to be honest.
29 March 2010
28 March 2010
In 1980, Shiseido hired Mr Lutens to develope their product image. Throughout the 1980s he shot various advertising campaigns and films for this beauty brand and designed makeup lines and packaging. These works won him two Lions d’Or at the International Advertising Film Festival. In 1982, Shiseido commissioned Lutens to create a fragrance called Nombre Noir. In the early 1990s Lutens opened the Les Salons du Palais Royal, a house of perfume in Paris. The rest is at the beauty counters. I heart Serge Lutens and he makes some of my favourite perfumes.
26 March 2010
To prep for next weekend's theatre date with Jac, I'm going to speed-read through Shakspeare's The Tempest. I studied it ages ago and discussing it over the phone with Jac recently, and realised I've forgotten a lot of it. Talking to Jac about books is always illuminating, and I enjoy these conversations very much - she feels literature so keenly, as do I. Over at G's last night, she urged me to read The Velveteen Rabbit (1992) written by Margery Williams and beautifully illustrated by William Nicholson, the story of a stuffed rabbit and his quest to become real. G generously pressed the book on me, despite it being of some sentimental value to her, having been given to her on her birthday by her friend Timothy Nga, the actor.
It's appropriate for Easter, don't you think?
I was too sleepy at that point in the night to ask her just what the relationship was, just managing to stagger downstairs, wade through the louche Orchard Towers crowd (it was just the beginning of the work day for the denizens of this building), and get into the cab. It was a looong night.
24 March 2010
22 March 2010
21 March 2010
The cover is of Natasha Poly, shot by Vinoodh Matadin and Inez Van Lamsweerde. The Western theme and navy masthead promises... denim, I guess. Inside:
- "Les Soeurs Jac & Lily" - The Donaldson sisters by Steven Klein.
- "Tsarine Daria" - Daria Werbowy by David Sims.
- "Princesse Natalia" - Natalia Vodianova by Marcus Piggott and Mert Alas
- "Fleurs De l'Age" - Raquel Zimmermann by Mario Sorrenti
- "Comtesse Natasha." Natasha Poly,by Vinoodh Matadin and Inez Van Lamsweerde
- "Une Fille Un Style" is Catherine Baba
- Alexander McQueen tribute
Similarly (or do I mean 'consistently'?), the summer Vogue Hommes International features a 'Americana' theme. Kate's cover is by Mario Sorrenti, styled by Emmanuelle Alt. The editorials include:
- "L'Étoffe des Héros" by Beat Bolliger/David Sims
- "Basquiat" by Anastasia Barbieri/Cedric Buchet
- "Elvis" by Emmanuelle Alt/David Sims,
- "Nouriev" by Carine Roitfeld/Patrick Demarchelier
(I'm quite certain that this shoot is based on the ballet legend Nureyev, after he defected to New York, probably set in the 1970s - 1980s? It's been done before, of course, but I can't wait to see this nevertheless because it's totally Carine's period!)
20 March 2010
Did you know that Piccadilly was named after a family who earned their fortune making piccadills, stiff collars with scalloped edges bordered with lace or perforations, during the 16th century?
Now you do.
19 March 2010
Back to the book. It's not brilliant, so not to bother.
Ms Barbery, 40, now lives in Japan, where she is working on her third novel.
Isn't this something?
BookBook is a one-of-a-kind, hardback leather case designed for a MacBook two colours: black or red). BookBook' hardcover and rigid spine provide protection and the vintage book design is so cute! Hand-crafted and distressed, no two are alike. The zippers' leather pulls look like bookmarks... You can order it here:
Drawing: Hans Olde
18 March 2010
17 March 2010
François Pinault, Arnault’s arch rival, and ceo of PPR–which owns brands like Balenciaga and Gucci was ranked #77, with an estimated net worth of $8.7 million.
The Detroit News reports the move stems from a $100,000 settlement in a federal lawsuit filed in 2008 by a city employee who said a colleague's perfume made it challenging for her to do her job." Have you heard of anything more illogical?
(Source: LA Times)
At Céline, Phoebe Philo described her look as “sharp, strict, reduced” which translated into workable separates which tried to harness the DNA of Celine — a bourgeois Parisian label that peaked in the 1970s. It was largely unremarkable, and underwhelming, even though the critics-who-don't-see have given it slobbering reviews, tails wagging. It seemed to me a watered-down follow-up from her wildly successful Spring show. In much the same key, Stella McCartney sent out graphic coats with notches and slits and sweaters and slacks quite plain and very clean, for her eponymous line. It has a 1960s vibe to it and is one of her better efforts. It's neat, humourous and stylish, though the cocktail numbers with satin mermaid trains looked suspect.I liked Hannah MacGibbon’s collection for Chloé most of all. I felt that it came closest to defining this season’s sensibility in a convincing style. Ms MacGibbon borrowed utilitarian masculine tailoring: The camel coat, the tan blouson, the butterscotch leather jacket, the herringbone tweeds and Prince of Wales checks, were taken from a British gent’s closet. The breezy wearability, however, was given her edge. She took that from the golden era of American sportswear (the 1970s), the days of early Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein — when racing to work while looking wholesomely sexy defined American glamour. Vogue used to call this look 'racy'. This collection wonderfully austere in another way: At just over 30 looks, this was one tightly edited collection, and I liked almost every look.