Those Shoes!

Having said what all I need to say about the irrelevance of Olivier Theyskens (I know, the hubris!) I must say I like these boots quite alot. They won't be going into production alas (like maybe 88% of his designs, quite rightly, of course). Goodbye, Mr Theyskens. The first picture is of Carine Roitfeld in her Alaia heels.

Fashion Circles

"People who move in fashion circles never have anything to say. You know it's hard enough doing this job, I don't have to fucking live it as well. I'd rather sit at home watching Coronation Street."

- Alexander McQueen

In and Out of Fashion

All you fashion folk know by now that Jil Sander is back in fashion as creative consultant to Uniqlo. It's been in the works since last June. Ms Sander said she had received “a lot of offers from many companies” since leaving the fashion world, but ended up deciding to try something “completely different”, an interesting choice, don't you think? It's much more intersting news than speculation about Olivier Theyskens's career ups and downs. Despite the ardent endorsement by Anna Wintour (did you read the vehement editor's letter in April's Vogue?), and a fawning following, the undoubtedly talented Mr Theyskens has yet to make a substantial impact in the business. Is he too young? Too fragile? Or simply a quitter? In any case, I've lost interest, and cease to care where he goes next, or if he starts his own label after showing his last collection for Nina Ricci. Level of irrelevance: Maximum.

It's delightful to see Wintour becoming undone. Has anyone noticed how she seems to have filled out her face at 60? Her cheeks and lips are puffy! And that bob? Surely it's a wig? She's such a drag. On the subject of drags, also in April's Vogue, in that great booby's column, always a huge joke, Life with Andre, the has-been is frothing over Jason Wu's fall 2009, comparing it to Gres and Dior. That man has really come undone in a big way.

Fall 2009: Comme des Garçons

Romantic, wearable, inventive. One of the top five for me this season.
In no particular order:
Prada
Jil Sander
Lanvin
Comme des Garçons
Balenciaga

Fall 2009: Alexader McQueen

Is this even ready-to-wear? Whatever this memorable collection may be, and it's certainly misogynistic, hyper drag, and irrelevant to the times, it is nonetheless the essence of what makes fashion fascinating, a rich marriage of vision and technique. I'm no fan of McQueen but this is a collection I can't stop thinking about.

Fall 2009: Balenciaga

Lurve it. I think I love it most because this collection has rather mixed reviews and seems a bit of a head-scratcher. I love that Nicolas Ghesquière has done an about-turn away from his coldly 'futurist' fembots, and gone swooningly femme. The glace coloured satins, the print dresses Empress Michiko would wear (Hane Mori anyone?), the voluptuous draping and swags. This is the only hommage YSL needs, deeply thought through, digested, updated. The Ungaro touches are there too, in those Princess Diana dresses. Ravishing.

Fall 2009: Louis Vuitton

I wanted to say I liked it, but in the end, I couldn't even be bothered to scroll through the 60-something looks to pick out some exits to illustrate my point. I mean, it's Paris, it's LV and if you show 60 looks there are bound to be a few dresses which are pretty, if not passably amusing. And what would be the point? I need to say that it's Lacroix, Ungaro, Mugler, Montana, Comme, Chanel, Geoffrey Beene speeded up but then you already know that. And it's not even that deep. It's a shallow person's take on fashion history and in the end, it's like a very dull conversation with someone not terribly cute. To say it's an improvement on his eponymous collection isn't saying much. Just be glad fashion week is over.

Fall 2009: Lanvin

It's what Wallis Simpson would wear in an Irving Penn shoot don't you think? This is cerebral womanly elegance as only Alber Elbaz can do. It's beautiful, but not exceptionally so by Mr Elbaz's standards, but he has set it incredibly high.  

Fall 2009: Martin Margiela

I like the idea of something vast and tricky and advanced, in this case the "cloud" shoulder, styled with the undone, and stripped away. Also aren't the plastic shoulder pads a touch of real genius? You could wear them with anything.

Fall 2009: Dolce & Gabbana

It's hardly ever that I like Dolce & Gabbana more than I do Burberry, but this season's Burberry was really rather tepid wasn't it, whereas Dolce was optimistic and fun and crazy in a way that made joyful sense (compare this to Marc Jacobs and I think you will see what I mean). This follows a strong Spring collection, and makes me want to pay more attention to this designer duo... at least for now. 

Fall 2009: Jil Sander

Sublime minimalism by Raf Simons. This collection is oddly comforting for reaffirming the Jil Sander brief, with just enough newness to engage interest. We've been down this road before but the twists and turns surprise and delight.

Fall 2009: Prada

I love the pared-down, rustic feel of it. But then I always liked tweed and all it represents, the sturdiness, the unpretentiousness, the masculinity. Miuccia Prada makes it all special of course with her inimitable touches, the shine, the unique sense of colour, the luxe fur, the revealing of pale pale skin, an intellectual womanliness. An elegant, lovely collection.

Fall 2009: Calvin Klein

While I want to say that I really really like this collection, I have to confess that I don't really. Francisco Costa is a designer's designer, and he is, in my mind one of the finest, and here, as always you can see Mr Costa designing himself into a froth. It's a great, intellectual exercise, and its really interesting technically but it's also ponderous and leaden and and laboured and leaves one a bit cold. It could all very well come down to the styling (the boots!), but still.

Fall 2009: Marc Jacobs

Free-wheeling and fun as this collection might be, one begins to wonder if it is a substantial enough effort in these difficult times. It was giddy-girly giggles scrolling through the 60 looks and the boldness and energy was uplifting - for all of 10 minutes, but then you look up and the world is still in a shambles, and you're left wondering if this wasn't a waste of beautiful fabrics. While no one is going to look to a fashion runway (not this one especially!) to change the world, surely we have learnt enough to want more than momentory escape? Surely a dose of transcendant beauty would have been (much) better panacea than this juvenile camp? 1980s anyone? I don't think so.