I forgot to say before that just before Christmas I recieved a couple of books that I wanted but never got down to buying; I guess I didn't want them badly enough. One was Diana Vreeland: The Eye has to Travel. I spent a very pleasant afternoon looking over every page with BG on his sofa, feeling excited and inspired. After that we went outside and repotted a cactus, and pruned back his passion fruit vine. Reading and gardening: I can't think of a more agreeable way to spend a Sunday afternoon - unless it's to work on a painting or drawing, but that's just me.
Anyway this book made me look at Carine Roitfeld's Irreverant with a bit more perspective - not that Irreverant isn't a splendid overview of Ms Roitfeld's work so far. It is, and much of it is excellent and definitive, and I'm her fan. Also, I like the personal bits of information, and the archival photos of her family. The thing I object to is the title, as well as the sense the book projects that her work, or her attitude actually pushes the moral or aesthetic envelope in some extreme, innovative fashion. You must be very short-sighted to not see that what she does had already been done half a century ago at least. Her ouevre is but an echo of the truly shocking (and yes, irreverant) path scorched by Helmut Newton, Chris Von Wangenheim (see below), Guy Bourdin and Robert Mapplethorpe. So accomplished, yes, irreverant, hardly.
And can someone tell me how someone as immaculately stylish as Ms Roitfeld begot a daughter who looks so common? In Julia Restoin Roitfeld's every slutty outfit, one can see that Carine's style really isn't for everyone.
Ms Mcmenamy's 1992 Vogue Italia cover (Steven Meisel) directly 'inspired' the 2010 Vogue Paris cover.
The rather vastly overrated Emmanuelle Alt takes the Vogue Paris to Las Vegas for February (can you be any less imaginative) which features Daria Werbowy (again!) on the cover in a Prada bathing suit. Photographed by Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, it's an attractive, effective, sexy cover. Inside promises an exclusive short story by Douglas Kennedy, an interview with Marc Jacobs on the occasion of his 15th year with Louis Vuitton, and 66 Spring looks shot in Las Vegas. Yawn.
Princess Charlotte Casiraghi of Monaco in Vogue Paris. The 25-year-old grand daughter of Grace Kelly shows off her fabulous genes on the cover of Vogue Paris's September issue, captured by the inevitable Mario Testino. This is not without precedent: Her mother, Princess Caroline, has been on the cover of Vogue Paris quite a few times.
(Above) Oct 1977, Norman Parkinson
Dec/Jan 1983, Andy Warhol
March 1979, Cecil Beaton
Princess Grace Kelly's Vogue cover, December 1971, Richard Avedon
Vogue UK, March, 1972
There's life after Carine!!! This her successor Emmanuelle Alt's first issue, and despite my misgivings at her putting Giselle on the cover, it looks quite fresh and exciting. I must say it's promising...
Does this not look very Emanuelle Alt? Not to mention that the aesthetics of the ad looks very YSL?
Lara Stone is becoming one of those all-time iconic models with each shoot she does. Here, she's on the Feb 2011 cover of Vogue Paris (Louis Vuitton outfit), Carine's second last issue.
Karl Lagerfeld, who worked with Emmanuelle Alt as stylist on Chanel campaigns years ago, says he thinks Ms Alt's strong style could be a double-edged sword in her new role as editor of Vogue Paris: “Her style is her big shoulders, long legs, tight jeans, sleeves up to the elbow, one hip out. I personally like her. She’s a handsome French woman. She has a style, but is it enough to make a whole magazine? As editor in chief, she may blossom."
Vogue Paris has announced that its new editor-in-chief is Emanuelle Alt. Ms Alt, primarily known as fashion director of Vogue Paris, will replace Carine Roitfeld immediately. According to reliable online sources, Ms Roitfeld and Ms Alt haven’t been getting along recently (this is getting to be like the plot of a gripping movie) - Ms Alt has worked at the magazine for over a decade under Carine.
The Impossible Emanuelle Alt says: “It’s a great honor for me, but also a great pleasure to become the editor of Vogue Paris that I know so well. In working with very talented teams I will try to develop the the incredible potential of Vogue Paris.”
Seriously, I'm not one of those rabid Givenchy fans, even though my favourite magazine's entire staff have thrown their weight behind the label's Ricardo Tisci. But I must say Givenchy has had a few moments this year, not least with their latest ads which feature the albino model Stephen Thompson (above, okay, he doesn't have a neck, I know, I know), and last season's transgender model Lea T. Is this casting call exploitative? I don't know, but it's sure influential.
And Givenchy has given us Rob Evans. Mr Evans would be something to find under a tree, or in a stocking, tied with a grosgrain bow!
Jonathan Newhouse, ceo of Condé Nast International said in a statement: "It is impossible to overstate Carine’s powerful contribution to Vogue and to the fields of fashion and magazine publishing. Under her direction, Vogue Paris received record levels of circulation and advertising and editorial success. Vogue Paris has established itself as one of the most iconic magazines in the world, with huge influence in the field of fashion and photography.Carine herself has become widely known as a beacon of style, fulfilling the role with charm and graciousness. She has become a giant in her profession. Carine will be deeply missed. I am extremely grateful to her for what she has achieved".
There's a certain eeeuuw factor about this shot - would you kiss Terry Richardson for anything in the world? Imagine the bugs you would unknowingly catch.
Stella!
Liya!
Beyonce! And Ms Smalls!
The more I look at the clothes, the more they look like more of the same; The collection just doesn't live up to the hype. Next, please.
Iris Strubegger in a story in Vogue Paris, shot by Mert & Marcus, styled by Carine Roitfeld. It really does recall those spreads of Linda Evangelista shot be Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia in the early 1990s.
