04 October 2010
Spring 2011 Paris: YSL
Everyone must be overly familiar by now, with the YSL codes; So many designers these past few weeks have referenced Yves Saint Laurent's work. Stefano Pilati outdid them all, however, by bringing YSL back—to Rive Gauche. This is the collection that Marc Jacobs attempted to do in New York, and didn't, isn't it? The clothes brought home all the codes of the house, but reduced, and shorn of embellishment, into its purest essence. The neat black and gold belt that held it all together was slim, not screaming OBI! The 1970s ruffles, the printed silk, the precision-tailored jumpsuits with the discreet flared legs (cute!), and the trench are all pure Yves Saint Laurent, but the modern volume and fit, the draping and proportions are also pure Pilati. It's not genius, not on the level of Prada, but it's accomplished and chic and clever.
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Pure YSL Rive Gauche! Thanks so much for this
ReplyDeleteDear David Toms: You're welcome! The best, brisk-est update thus far, with no affectations and curiously flattering, which is not often the case with mr pilati.
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