Tomas Maier's collection has a feeling of out-of-the-city
escapism and the freedom of the open road; this is of a piece with the rest of
the collections seen thus far. The overall trope seems to be ease and an escape to a more innocent
time. There is a hint of the 1970s hippie movement, full of peace and love.
At Bottega Veneta, the fringe and exaggerated eyelet closings for collars are childish clothes, and have a Robin Hood quality about them. Are we playing
Little boys grow up into jocks with an emphasis on the athletic seperates of youth, a hot teenage brother going off to a game perhaps, with the sporty panels and zip-fronts.
The colour scheme in this passage is has adult sensuality,
and the fabrics have a sweaty sheen.
Mainly, the shapes have the easy fit of clothes that can be
pulled over heads, like most children’s clothes, such as T-shirts; The majority
of tops were in fact collarless and based on the tee.
Innocent days: A dreamy floral, which appeared halfway
through the show, in ensembles of gauzy layers of floral print is as soft and
feminine as it sounds, and rendered the most straightforward jackets a cute
‘play-date’ quality. Along with the tunic shirts, long-over-longer overshirts that
covered the crotch give a neutered, sexless effect, an obvious retreat from
alpha male virility.
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